When we last checked in with our heroes, they were heading out of Germany, a train strike looming in the future and no known way to return to Berlin in order to catch their (already paid for) flight home….
The train rumbled into Prague and upon disembarking we went straight to the ticket office. My theory being there MUST be a non-German train going from Prague to Berlin. Czech Republic MUST have a train system – they’re a nation for chrissake. Finally getting to the front of the line we discovered that there are in fact trains to Germany (run by the Czechs) but (grrrr) they only go to DRESDEN. I asked about a bus and was directed to the tourist point and from there to Student Academy which ran buses out of Prague and, falling to my knees in thanks, was told there were two seats left on the 11:00 bus on the day we needed.
We snatched them up and we were off to Prague, which is the most beautiful city I have ever been to.
Seriously, look at this:
We were staying in old town right next to the Charles Bridge which we crossed immediately to go find the John Lennon Wall. This is a graffiti-ed wall that was erected after John Lennon was killed and has over time been updated with new art.
And what’s even better than the John Lennon wall?
THE JOHN LENNON PUB!
Back in Old Town Square, they have the Astronomical Clock.
It was installed in 1410 and is the oldest astronomical clock still working. This clock is amazing – there’s the position of the sun and the moon as well as the month day and time. The four figures flanking the clock which MOVE, represent the four biggest fears/faults/sins: Vanity, holding the mirror, Greed holding a bag of money, Death in the form of a skeleton who rings the bell each hour and finally foreign invasion which is represented by a Turk which is, of course, totally racist. But it was 1410 so you need to sort keep that in context.
On the hour Death rings the bell and the two windows open and a bunch of saints go parading by, then the rooster crows and the show is over.
I’m not gonna lie – I watched this like three times. It’s just so awesome.
Prague Castle was a nice long walk up a long winding hill that gave you great views like this:
And the other really cool thing about Prague Castle is that it’s where Milos Forman filed Amadeus (which happens to be one of my all time favorite movies).
This was the building that was Mozart’s house:
And even cooler (as if that were possible) down the lane from this house is this one:
This is Tycho Brahe’s house. If you’re not familiar with Tycho Brahe – and you should be if you watched Cosmos – he was an astronomer, astrologist and alchemist back in the 1500’s. He was the last of the “naked eye” astronomers – those working without telescopes. While Brahe was in Prague, attempting to do his nightly observations of the cosmos, he was interrupted by the neighboring church service and, in a rare show of science over faith, managed to get them quit all church activities as soon as the sun went down so that he could work uninterrupted. The power of science!
On top of that he lost part of his nose in a sword duel and allegedly had a pet moose that got drunk and died falling down the stairs. Poor moose. I also think Tycho’s Moose would be a great band name.
We also saw his grave but we weren’t allowed to take pictures so you’ll have to settle for a Wikipedia one:
Afterwards we hit up the Old Jewish Cemetery:
And when they say OLD they mean old. It was in use from the early 15th century and the last body was buried here in 1787.
And while Rabbi Loeb is pretty famous, Prague’s most famous resident is Franz Kafka. We did a whole Kafka walk, which I might highlight in a separate post for anyone itching to see places that Kafka lived.
In the meantime, here’s a plaque where his birth home was:
and of course, his grave:
And this is the monument they set up for him, strangely surreal, much like our boy:
But Kafka wasn’t the only grave we saw:
Prague is full of all kinds of cool stuff. Like this guy:
And places Einstein lived:
And this building called the Fred and Ginger Dancing House:
And the hall where Mozart conducted Don Giovanni in 1787:
But it’s definitely most famous for the Karlov Most (Charles Bridge)
Which looks great in the day but breathtaking at sunset:
And then, it was time to leave…..
We took the five hour bus ride back to Berlin for one last night, during which it was the 70th anniversary of end of World War II. Being in Berlin on the anniversary of the defeat of Nazism, especially when the Russians were waving their flag around the Brandenburg Gate makes for a weird evening.
Then we boarded the plane and took the long flight back to New York.
Home. Home. Home.
I don’t like to compare trips, especially because it’s going to take a lot of time for me to really process everything we saw and experienced but I will say this – while this trip might not go down as the prettiest (except of course Prague) or the most “fun” (train strikes do throw a damper on things. Also, Nazis.) I have a feeling that it will mean the most. Maybe because of everything last year.
Maybe because I needed it more this time.
Maybe because it just will.
Anyway, it’s a big world out there. If you get the chance, try and see some of it.
Peace, love and starbursts,